Shifter
Lubrication for the LC Intruder
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Make
your tranny work like it's supposed to!
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Missing gears? Rough shifting? Falling out of gear
into that mysterious "Phantom neutral"?
Before you haul her in for some major tranny work, give
her some TLC and clean and lubricate the shifter pedal
and linkage joints first. You just might be surprised at
how little lubricant is there now, or how rusted or
grungy the pivot post is.
Most any forward control shifting mechanism is subject to
mother nature's ravages, rain, road grime, dirt...whatever,
if the shift pivot or linkage gets cranky, she just can't
quite get it together, but most of the time, she can
easily be fixed.
You need some good synthetic,
Marine Grade wheel bearing grease,
some paper towels, a 14mm wrench and an 8mm
socket driver.
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Take off the large left engine cover (the one with the
air vent in it). Be careful with it, because you have to
unplug the rectifier harness before it will come free of
the bike. (You are removing that cover to give yourself
clearance to remove the sifter pedal from the foot board
plate.)
Then, remove the single pivot bolt that holds your shift
pedal to its stanchion on the foot board plate. Slide the
pedal off it's pivot bearing and ease it over out of the
way (you don't have to remove it from the linkage). Clean
the bearing surface and the inside of the pedal, then
grease both areas with some marine grade grease (the
stuff you grease boat trailer bearings with).
TIP: If your linkages have not been serviced before, you
may find that the bushing and pedal pivot hole are
rusted, and may even have to drive out the bushing with a
socket and hammer. Once this is done, clean up the inside
areas with a wire brush type battery terminal cleaner. (Thanks to Tom Housley for that tip)
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Pedal and Bushing (laying
on floorboard) |
Rear Linkage (behind
the large side cover) |
On each end of the linkage rod, there is a ball joint.
You should skin back the rubber dust seal and pack this
ball joint with the same marine grease. There is a small
hole in the outboard surface of the joint that you can
press grease into with your finger (just like hand
packing a wheel bearing) until it pushes the old stuff
out the inboard side, then clean off the old stuff (assuming
that there was any!) and push the dust cover back over
the joint.
Now re-install the pedal and large engine cover (don't
forget to re-plug the wiring harness in) and ride down to
the store and buy some chrome!!.
UPDATE!! You wanna get
rid of that lump of rust and corrosion formerly known as a steel bushing
and replace it with a permanently smooth bronze bushing?
Check out the new
GBushing from GManIndustries!! Spend a few bucks while you've got
the shifter off and never have to deal with it again!!
The new Bronze GBushing from
www.gmanindustries.com
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