First Service for the LC Intruder

A walk through for your 600 mile checkup.

I highly recommend that you let your Suzuki shop do your 600 mile service. This is commonly known as a very expensive oil change, but it will give you an invaluable opportunity to meet your service department, and make a reasonable assessment of their knowledge and competency BEFORE you need them for any serious repairs! Better to meet them now, and know whether or not you want them working on your bike in the future.

However, for you knowledge and understanding, or if you still prefer to do your own work, the following is taken mostly from the factory service manual, and partly from my own experience.

600 Mile Service Data:

Replace Engine oil and filter
Inspect Idle Speed
Inspect Automatic decompression cable
Inspect Throttle cable play
Inspect Carburetor syncronization
Inspect Brakes (remove the pads and fully inspect them)
Replace Final Gear oil
Inspect Steering
Tighten exhaust pipe nuts/bolts and muffler bolts
Tighten chassis Bolts and nuts (anything you can see, but especially brake caliper mounting bolts and engine mounting bolts)

CHANGING ENGINE OIL:

You will need five quarts of oil and a filter (your choice but for the 600 mile service I would recommend getting your oil and filter from your Suzy dealer, and keep the sales slip in your owner's manual) The book says SF or SG classified 10W/40.

The oil fill cap on the LC is located behind the right side rear chrome engine cover. Remove the two 4mm Allen head screws to remove the cover. Be sure that all the rubber bumpers and metal washers come off with the cover, or you'll find them later in your crankcase!

Place the bike upright and drain the oil pan using the 13mm drain bolt located on the lower rear end of the engine (not the one next to the oil filter!), then remove the oil filter using the appropriate filter wrench (Oil Filter Wrench (68mmX14 flutes). Vector Part# 17070C).

Let the bike sit and drain for 15 minutes or more to allow as much oil to work it's way out of the cooler as possible!

Install the new oil filter and hand tighten, then wrench tighten a quarter to a half turn (the book says 1 and 1/2 turns, but it don't need to be that tight! TIP: while your filter wrench is new and clean, place a white dab of paint on it for a reference marker.

Re-install the drain bolt, then remove the chrome oil fill cover (right rear of engine) and oil fill plug and pour in 4 quarts of oil. Watch your oil level indicator (site glass) and don't over fill! (Bike should still be upright and level)

Replace your oil fill plug and crank the engine and let it run long enough to circulate the oil and fill the filter and cooler (about half a minute or so) then shut it down.

Check the oil level indicator, and slowly pour in oil from the fifth quart until you reach the full mark. Replace the fill plug and cover.

FINAL GEAR OIL:

With the bike upright and level, drain the final gear oil from the bottom 20mm drain bolt, clean the magnetic bolt and re-install it. Then remove the large 17mm fill plug located just to the rear of the axel cap, and fill with SAE 90W Hypoid GL5 Gear oil until it runs out the fill hole. (However, I would not hesitate to use Mobile Synthetic gear oil in the rear at this point)

IDLE SPEED:

The idle speed control knob is located just inboard of the horn mounting bracket. After the bike is warm, if you need to adjust the speed, do so with gloves on. Just grab the adjustment knob and turn until you reach the desired idlespeed. If your bike is idled too high, it will not return to idle quickly when the throttle is abruptly closed. If it is idled too low, the generator will not keep the battery charged at idle speed and your oil is not being circulated at the proper pressure.

BRAKES:

Remove both sets of pads and blow them clean and inspect them. (Do this to your rears with EVERY OIL CHANGE!) Pay close attention to your rear pads, they wear fast, but if the inner pad is considerably more worn than the outer, or is very unevenly worn, mark the pads (inner and outer) and take them to your dealer and bring the issue up with him. If the wear pattern is excessive, you may be inline for some warranty work on your rear caliper.

All other inspections

If it's working fine, leave it alone, if not, get a service manual for more extensive How-To info.

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