First
Service for the LC Intruder
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A walk
through for your 600 mile checkup.
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I highly recommend that you let your Suzuki shop do
your 600 mile service. This is commonly known as a very
expensive oil change, but it will give you an invaluable
opportunity to meet your service
department, and make a reasonable assessment
of their knowledge and competency BEFORE you need them
for any serious repairs! Better to meet them now, and
know whether or not you want them working on your bike in
the future.
However, for you knowledge and understanding, or if you
still prefer to do your own work, the following is taken
mostly from the factory service manual, and partly from
my own experience.
Replace Engine oil and filter
Inspect Idle Speed
Inspect Automatic decompression cable
Inspect Throttle cable play
Inspect Carburetor syncronization
Inspect Brakes (remove the pads and fully inspect them)
Replace Final Gear oil
Inspect Steering
Tighten exhaust pipe nuts/bolts and muffler bolts
Tighten chassis Bolts and nuts (anything you can see, but
especially brake caliper mounting bolts and engine
mounting bolts)
You will need five quarts of oil and a filter (your
choice but for the 600 mile service I would recommend
getting your oil and filter from your Suzy dealer, and
keep the sales slip in your owner's manual) The book says
SF or SG classified 10W/40.
The oil fill cap on the LC is located behind the right
side rear chrome engine cover. Remove the two 4mm Allen
head screws to remove the cover. Be sure that all the
rubber bumpers and metal washers come off with the cover,
or you'll find them later in your crankcase!
Place the bike upright and drain the oil pan using the 13mm
drain bolt located on the lower rear end of the engine (not
the one next to the oil filter!), then remove the oil
filter using the appropriate filter wrench (Oil Filter
Wrench (68mmX14 flutes). Vector Part# 17070C).
Let the bike sit and drain for 15 minutes or more to
allow as much oil to work it's way out of the cooler as
possible!
Install the new oil filter and hand tighten, then wrench
tighten a quarter to a half turn (the book says 1 and 1/2
turns, but it don't need to be that tight! TIP: while
your filter wrench is new and clean, place a white dab of
paint on it for a reference marker.
Re-install the drain bolt, then remove the chrome oil
fill cover (right rear of engine) and oil fill plug and
pour in 4 quarts of oil. Watch your oil level indicator (site
glass) and don't over fill! (Bike should still be upright
and level)
Replace your oil fill plug and crank the engine and let
it run long enough to circulate the oil and fill the
filter and cooler (about half a minute or so) then shut
it down.
Check the oil level indicator, and slowly pour in oil
from the fifth quart until you reach the full mark.
Replace the fill plug and cover.
With the bike upright and level, drain the final gear
oil from the bottom 20mm drain bolt, clean the magnetic
bolt and re-install it. Then remove the large 17mm fill
plug located just to the rear of the axel cap, and fill
with SAE 90W Hypoid GL5 Gear oil until it runs out the
fill hole. (However, I would not hesitate to use Mobile
Synthetic gear oil in the rear at this point)
The idle speed control knob is located just inboard of
the horn mounting bracket. After the bike is warm, if you
need to adjust the speed, do so with gloves on. Just grab
the adjustment knob and turn until you reach the desired
idlespeed. If your bike is idled too high, it will not
return to idle quickly when the throttle is abruptly
closed. If it is idled too low, the generator will not
keep the battery charged at idle speed and your oil is
not being circulated at the proper pressure.
Remove both sets of pads and blow them clean and
inspect them. (Do this to your rears with EVERY OIL
CHANGE!) Pay close attention to your rear pads, they wear
fast, but if the inner pad is considerably more worn than
the outer, or is very unevenly worn, mark the pads (inner
and outer) and take them to your dealer and bring the
issue up with him. If the wear pattern is excessive, you
may be inline for some warranty work on your rear caliper.
If it's working fine, leave it alone, if not, get a
service manual for more extensive How-To info.
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