Pair Valve Removal Made Easy
|by "Moccasin" Mike|
For the LC Intruder 1500
These instructions were written for disabling/removal of the Intruder LC 1500 Pair Valve. Marauder disabling/removal is very similar, except that removal of the chrome cover is slightly different, and there is no airbox nipple to cap. Click here for specific removal instructions for the Marauder.
NOTE** The only tools you will need for
this operation are a pair of pliers, a 6mm hex (allen) wrench,
and a 10mm wrench. These can be found in your Suzuki Tool Kit. (Add
a second 10mm wrench if you plan to remove the cylinder studs).
This procedure will take about an hour if you work real slow. J
All metal components of the removal kits have been "Blackened" with satin finish engine paint, and baked at 400 degrees to match your engine block.
|STEP 1. REMOVE THE COVER|
With a sharp pointed knife, pry the chrome button cap off of the Pair Valve Cover Screw in the center of the cover. Then, use a 6mm hex (allen) wrench to remove the screw, and pull the cover.
|STEP 2. CLAMPS, NUTS, BOLTS, AND VALVE.|
· With a pair of pliers (or your fingers) loosen and slide the
lower tube hose clamps toward the center of the rubber tubing.
If you only wish to disable the pair valve, but not remove any of it's components, insert an upside down golf tee into each lower rubber tubing piece. leave a small piece of the pointed end sticking out of the the top of the rubber tube (for removal later if necessary), and re-install the tubes to the pair valve and replace the cover. For a visual reference for disabling the system without removing components, CLICK HERE.
· With a 10mm wrench, remove the lower tube
flange nuts from each cylinder. (4 nuts total)
· Pull the small diameter vacuum tube from the front of the valve.
· Remove the two 10mm valve mounting bolts.
· Pull the valve towards you far enough to allow you to reach behind it and loosen the hose clamp on the air inlet hose.
· Pull the air inlet hose free from the valve, then pull the valve free from the lower tubes, and finally, out of the cover housing.
|STEP 3. TUBES|
· Remove the lower tubes from the cylinders, and make sure that no gasket material remains on the cylinder.
|STEP 4. REMOVE VALVE COVER HOUSING|
· Remove the three 10mm bolts from inside the
Valve Cover Housing.
· Remove the hose clamp from the air inlet hose, and remove the cover housing.
NOTE: If you wish to retain the cover housing, you should remove it at this time, to allow access to the vacuum and air inlet nipples that must be capped, then you can replace it.
|STEP 5. Remove the small diameter vacuum hose from the "T" fitting|
Plug the "T" fitting with the smaller 5/32" Rubber Cap Plug in the kit, and twist the "T" fitting upwards to hide the cap.
|STEP 6. IMPORTANT STEP! Remove the Airbox tube and cap the nipple.|
This is the most difficult step in this process, but if youre good with your fingers, it will keep you from having to remove the fake "Tank" side cover.
· Trace the path of the large air inlet tube
with your fingers, so you can locate the airbox nipple.
· Reach up and squeeze the hose clamp, and slide it down the tube.
· Pull the tube straight down and off the airbox nipple. A little twist will help here.
· Now using your fingers, push the large 3/8" Rubber Cap Plug from the kit onto the airbox nipple.
This Cap Plug is a tight fit on the nipple. It might help to apply a little soap to the inside edge of the plug, as you will have to work it a bit to get it on. IT WILL GO!! IVE DONE IT SEVERAL TIMES!! (You should use the OEM hose clamp to secure the cap onto the nipple)
NOTE* If you accidentally pulled the hose off of the airbox nipple while removing the valve, you can locate the nipple by following a line straight up from the upper Pair Valve Cover Housing Screw Hole on your front cylinder.
|STEP 7. PLUG THE CYLINDERS|
· Attach the supplied plates and gaskets to the
lower tube mounting surfaces on the cylinders.
· Gasket sealer is not necessary, but if you have it, I do recommend that you use it.
· Do not overtighten the nuts/bolts here. A light torque is fine.
|STEP 8. PLUG THE SCREW HOLES|
Use three of the supplied M6-1.0x16mm
Stainless Steel bolts and lock washers to fill the empty holes in
the cylinders left by removing the housing.
YOURE DONE!! Dont you wish YOU could loose five pounds of ugly fat that easy!!! J
NOTE* There are an additional four M6-1.0x16mm Stainless Bolts and Washers supplied with the kit. These are for replacing the cylinder studs, if you desire to do so.
REPLACING STUDS: If you havent pulled studs before; thread two nuts on the stud and tighten them very tightly against each other (opposite directions toward each other), then put a wrench on the inner nut, and as you try to "unscrew" it, the whole stud will unscrew. You may have to apply a little "counter pressure" to the outside nut with another wrench at the same time.
CAUTION! - Bear in mind that anytime you work with studs, you run the risk of breaking the stud off, requiring difficult drilling and tapping to replace it. Pre-soaking the threads with penetrating oil, and a few light taps straight on the end of the stud with a light hammer will help break loose the hold of any corrosion inside. If the stud seems to require a lot of force, leave it be!
If you are a stickler for details and have the time, tools and patience, check out DaCoyote's hand fabricated fin bridges. Used in lieu of plug screws for the top two housing screw holes.
Happy Wrenching!!! J
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